Ground Clearing/ Tear Out
Clear the work area of all unwanted tree roots, mulch, large rocks, andany remaining construction debris orobsturctions. Utilize sod cutters, shovels and pick axes to remove grass and vegitation.
Irrigation and electrical lines may be located just under the surface of the project area. Locate and cap off or remove all unwanted sprinkler heads.
Turn on irrigation to verify everything works correctly before you start. Do the same with any existing electrical feature.
As we begin the sub-base process its recommended to lay down the weed barrier cloth first. Installing the base surface is critical to
maintain the stability and integrity of the turf system.
First layer is 2"-3" of Class 2 Road Base. Begin dumping pile after pile and spread evenly.
Lightly water it thoroughly to allow it to settle while using a vibrating plate compactor. Ensure the base is firm throughout and is leveled.
Second layer is 1/4" (quarter of an inch) of Decomposed Granite.
Once again, water thoroughly and utilize the vibrating plate compactor once more to create a level smooth surface.
Make sure to measure the project area and carefully design the layout to minimize the number of seams in the turf.
Unroll the synthetic grass and stretch across the top of the prepared base. Do not drag across. If the synthetic turf has a wrinkle; allow it to acclimate in the sun.
Landscape & playground turf comes in 15 ft wide rolls, putting green material comes in 12 ft wide rolls. Due to the natural direction of the grass blades, turf must be laid out in the same direction.
Cutting the Grass to Fit
The artificial grass can be cut around your existing landscape whether it is a perfect square, or a winding path that is bordered by rocks.
The best method is to lay the grass out and trace from the top where you'll be making your cuts.
There are 2 different tools you'll need for this process:
1) Long Pile Carpet Cutter. 2) Carpet knife.
All cuts must be made from back side of synthetic turf to see the stitch rows.
Securing the Turf
Secure the turf by staking the edges with 5"-6" nails. Space the nails along the perimeter edges approximately 3"-6" apart.
Repeat the process for treated lumber, benderboard, or polyboard around the border.
Seaming the Turf Panels
A straight edge is required when seaming two synthetic turf cuts together. Make sure the stitch lines match. If the cuts are straight and the tuft lines match, the seams will be virtually invisible.
Another option available is the "S" cut method using a custom stencil. This is a more advanced process but will give you the same natural appearance.
Once you have your seams cut and in place, pull both pieces of turf back exposing the subbase. Place the seam tape with half of the tape under each cut.
Use a synthetic turf adhesive and apply to the seam tape. Fold the two sections of artificial grass over seaming material to form one seamless piece.
An alternative to seaming artificial grass together is to use 4" 20d or 5" - 6" 40d nails along the seam both sides with 3"- 4" spacing.
Round Silica Sand is the standard infill for artificial turf. Proper infill installation is critical to maintaining your artificial grass system. 1-3 lbs. per sq. ft. Infill helps to protect the synthetic grass from the elements while maintaining the blade structure and level design. Spread infill material evenly utilizing a drop spreader (the type commonly used to spread grass seed), or a flat.
Do not attempt to install the infill material while the synthetic grass or the infill material is wet.
Once all sand is spread evenly on top of turf it will need to be broomed into the turf fibers. Use a power broom to brush up turf fibers and let the sand work down in between the turf blades. When the infill process is complete, water the entire area evenly with a hose to settle the material.
No job would be complete without the proper clean up. You can use a blower, rake, brush or broom to clean up the grass, as well as water.